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From HotPotter to HotPotter


In this blog you will find HotPot related tips, advice and how-tos to improve your glass fusing and have an enjoyable time!


Feel free to drop us a question, if it's been on your mind, chances are someone else has been wondering about it too and you'll be doing everybody a big favour :o)

By HotPot Norge, Jul 20 2015 09:00AM

Chances are if you go to an art and craft fair these days you'll come across some dichroic jewelry for sale.

This colorful, iridescent glass experienced a surge in popularity a few years ago, and the craze shows no signs of stopping any time soon.

The best thing about dichroic glass is that you can make your own jewelry with a HotPot microwave kiln.

A good way of personalizing your jewelry even more is to engrave the dichroic glass with your very own design. It is simply removing a part of the dichroic layer to reveal the image you want.

This can be anything from flowers, trees, tribal motives to letters and numbers and so on.

If there is a Dremel in the house, your life becomes much easier. However, engraving can also be done with any sharp iron item like a nail or a screw.

To etch the glass:

1) Drag the tip of your instrument over the surface - this will scratch / remove the dichroic layer.

The deeper you go, the stronger your lines. Vary the line depth for a more dynamic look.

2) Wipe the glass particles off your etching to reveal your design.

3) Fuse the dichroic glass in your piece as normal and you'll end up with a highly personalized piece.

This etching can be done with Dichroic on Black and Dichroic on Clear glass.

Useful tip:

The deeper you go, the stronger your lines. Vary the line depth for a more dynamic look.

Picture1: Etched dichro on clear
Picture1: Etched dichro on clear
Picture2: Incorporating the piece in a design
Picture2: Incorporating the piece in a design
Picture3: The finished piece after fusing
Picture3: The finished piece after fusing
Another example on a black background
Another example on a black background

By HotPot Norge, Feb 2 2013 10:00AM

Bubbles can be caused by many different things.

Uneven stacking of glass can result in air trapped between layers. To prevent this from occurring, check the placement of all the glass pieces to insure they are sitting properly on the base. If possible fill up the small openings between the different glass pieces with a clear glass.

Second, check the glass prior to fusing. Some glass may already contain bubbles inside, which may or may not affect the outcome.

By HotPot Norge, Jan 26 2013 10:00AM

If the glass piece has flattened out too much, the piece is over fired.

To prevent this from happening, reduce the firing time.

During the firing process, lift the lid of the microwave kiln to see how far the fusing process is.

If the desired results have not been achieved, continue firing in 20-30 seconds intervals.

Repeat this till you have your piece fused to the level you want.

By hotpotnorge, Jan 29 2012 10:51AM

Testing out the HotPot starter pack some time ago we had lots of fun and at the same time wanted to make more pieces with “depth”.

We did see so many nice cabochons on the internet that were so pretty and delicate in appearance it was very inspiring.

Also realizing that these nice pieces were made by people with loads of experience we wanted to see how fast we could get to their level, more or less.

By looking at these pictures we concluded that the dichroic glass was a big part of the answer.

That’s strange, we used dichros from the HotPot starter pack and while it gives nice results it wasn’t what we were looking for. How to improve on this?

The eureka moment came when we combined dichroic on black with clear dichroic glass over it. Also a colored base with clear dichroic on top gives very interesting results. As with clear dichro over millefiore.

We realized that if the clear dichro is used upside down (i.e. the dichro film side of the glass faces up) the piece comes out cloudy.

We hope this info will help everybody to diversify the pieces they make and get even more satisfaction out of the HotPot.

Yvette and Fred

Picture below: "London calling"

Made on a white background with PreCuts hearts, red and black frit, two small millifiore and clear dichro. Topped off with a layer of clear glass.

London calling
London calling

By HotPot Norge, Jan 20 2012 11:00AM

Dichroic glass is glass containing multiple micro-layers of metals or oxides which give the glass dichroic optical properties.

The main characteristic of dichroic glass is that it has a particular transmitted color and a completely different reflected color, as certain wavelengths of light either pass through or are reflected. This causes an array of color to be displayed. The colors shifts depending on the angle of view.


Modern dichroic glass is available as a result of materials research carried out by NASA and its contractors, who developed it for use in dichroic filters. However, dichroic glass dates back to at least the 4th century AD.


Multiple ultra-thin layers of different metals (such as gold or silver); oxides of such metals as titanium, chromium, aluminum, zirconium, or magnesium; or silica are vaporized by an electron beam in a vacuum chamber.

The vapor then condenses on the surface of the glass in the form of a crystal structure. A protective layer of quartz crystal is sometimes added.

The finished glass can have as many as 30 to 50 layers of these materials, yet the thickness of the total coating is approximately 30 to 35 millionths of an inch (about 760 to 890 nm).

The coating that is created is very similar to a gemstone and, by careful control of thickness, different colors may be obtained.


Dichroic glass is now available to artists through dichroic coating manufacturers. Glass artists often refer to dichroic glass as "dichro".

Dichroic glass is specifically designed to be hot worked but can also be used in its raw form. Sculpted glass elements that have been shaped by extreme heat and then fused together may also be coated with dichroic afterwards to make them reflect an array of colors.